Stuck in Kilkenny

Whenever I am in Europe, I immediately want to find the nearest medieval town (which is not too difficult to do in Europe). The narrow winding lanes, the centuries old stone work, the history…it is easy to wander within the walls of medieval cities and feel like you have been transported back in time. So if there is a city to wander, I highly recommend Kilkenny. I just would not necessarily recommend getting stuck there. 100 feet in the air. In an ancient tower.

Before I get to that, let me say that Kilkenny is a charming town full of color, history and music. As fate would have it, I arrived in the thick of Kilkenny’s Annual Art Festival. This meant art and music could be found around every corner with historic landmarks serving as backdrops or in many cases, the show room. It was really charming.

So, back to how I got stuck.

I woke early to catch the 7 am train to Kilkenny and when I arrived, immediately headed to St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower. The cathedral is Ireland’s second largest (after St. Patrick in Dublin) and dates back to the 13th century. The Round Tower next to the cathedral date back to the 9th century.

The cathedral is very beautiful inside with all the elements you would expect from a cathedral: stained glass windows, elaborately carved tombs, religious sculptures. What I liked about the cathedral most is that it felt like it was stilled lived in, that the town still fully used the cathedral as a place of worship and community. Sometimes you can walk into ancient cathedrals and they really are more like museums. That was not the case here as it was very homey and there was even comforts had for the cathedral black cat, who was given a very comfortable bed to sleep on.

Heading into the Round Tower next to St. Canice’s, I really did not know what I was getting myself into. All I knew was the tower was the oldest structure in Kilkenny and I can climb up it. The tower is 100 feet tall and incredibly narrow. A small metal staircase lead up to the entrance and you entered the tower through a very small archway. Immediately in front of you is a wooden staircase that leads you up 7 flights and 121 steps…7 narrow flights and 121 ladder steps that require you to use your hands to climb as well. I questioned if I could do this with a backpack on. The space allowed absolutely no room for baggage. But my backpack goes where I go (and really, there was no where to put it), so I just tried to be as creative as possible while maneuvering my way up.

When you start climbing, an audio guide is motion activated on each floor telling you the history of the tower and how it was used as a bell tower and also a place to hide treasure from raiders. The audio guide also assures you that the tower has been around for centuries and while it may be leaning a bit, it is sure to stay upright until you reach the top. Incredibly comforting.

With its narrow and winding path up, I was sure my backpack and I were going to take this ancient structure down by knocking some stones loose as I occasionally scraped my pack against the walls. The real challenge came when running into other visitors (which fortunately were few). My damn backpack and I would plaster ourselves against the walls of the tower (ancient walls…really, really old walls), suck in, and encourage the other person to squeeze past. I did some extreme personal space invasion with at least four strangers.

When I finally reached the top, there were 3 stone steps to bring you to the top deck and an encompassing view of the town of Kilkenny. The backpack strikes again. The opening to the top is even smaller then the passage below, but I am a bull in a china closet and power forward. Next thing I know, I find myself wedged into the opening, unable to move forward or back. Yep, I am that stupid tourist stuck in an opening of a national treasure because she did not take off her backpack. After spending some time “O shit” -ing the situation and wondering at what point another visitor will come up to see this ridiculous display, I was able to wiggle the bag off my shoulders and down my back. Crisis averted. In my relief, I stood on those steps for a few moments in gratitude and to commemorate the moment…with a selfie. That’s right, another tourist move, but here it is.

After making my way down the tower (and getting real close with a couple more strangers), I headed back out and to Kilkenny Castle, where wide open spaces were welcoming me.

So a tip from me to you: If you are lucky enough to make it to Kilkenny, Ireland and decide to climb the Round Tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral, keep it light and tight, folks.

Below are some more highlights from my visit to Kilkenny. A wonderful stay in a laid back, medieval city.

Kilkenny Castle

Gorgeous castle with a long history. Built for defense, but gorgeous design, especially the Picture Gallery Wing.

Kyteler’s Inn

Dame Alice Kyteler’s old house from the 13th century and a great pub for a drink and music. Dame Alice was charged with witchcraft because all four of her husbands died quickly and mysteriously, leaving her very wealthy. She was later acquitted of being a witch, but I firmly believe she was just a crafty witch.

St. Mary’s Cathedral

Another very beautiful cathedral in Kilkenny.

Rothe House and Garden

17th century home to a wealthy merchant, Rothe House is a series of buildings with stone courtyards in between. Very interesting design inside and the garden was designed in a way to grow food as well as serve as a place to hold diplomatic discussions. What I found interesting is that during an archaeological dig of the vegetable garden, hair pins from the servants who worked the garden centuries ago could still be found in the soil.

Smithwick’s Experience

So Smithwick’s is my Irish beer of choice (sorry, Guinness). This tour is really interesting and interactive. It begins with a hologram of a monk talking about the origins of beer in Kilkenny (he reminded me of Obi-Wan Kenobi) and in other areas, the Smithwick founders and supporters tell their story through frames Harry Potter style. Then at the end, this nice gentleman gave me a beer.