Tea, Austen and Bath

Recently I found myself in a city unlike any other. Standing in the centre, I was surrounded by a variety of characters and visuals to rival any Renaissance Festival. To my right, there was a man in a fedora and trench coat conversing with and covered in pigeons. To my left, a man was balancing on top of a free standing ladder delighting  the crowd around him. In front of me, a women covered in bronze paint sat perfectly still as she mimicked a statue of Madame Curie. Weaving their way through the various spectacles were men and women in Regency dress, chatting and enjoying the day as the smell of coffee and pastries filled the air. While I was convinced this was the best historical festival I had ever been to, in reality, it was just another day in Bath, England.

I stayed in Bath for a week and loved every minute. In fact, I believe within my first few hours, I called home to discuss transatlantic transportation options for my dog, Boudreaux, with my mother. I could just see us wandering the narrow, old-world streets of Bath as well as the English countryside surrounding the city. Bou would love it!

There are so many things I loved about Bath and I could ramble on and on about all of them to your absolute boredom (I might still bore you, but its my blog and I will ramble if I want to). Instead, I will highlight some of my favorite experiences and the practical lessons I have learned. Yes, there were lessons, important ones if I do say so myself, and I happily share them with you.

The Roman Baths

Of course Bath is know for its…well, bath. The Roman’s established the city when they built lavish bath houses utilizing the area’s natural hot springs. In the 17th century, claims circulated that the spring’s waters had curative powers. Today, you are encouraged not to touch the water in the Great Bath (it is not treated, as you can probably tell below).

The Roman Bath exhibit is really well done. Guests learn the history of the bath, the lifestyle of the Romans, and have the opportunity to walk through the site’s ruins that include: the main bath, excavated streets, coins, arches, mosaics, and other decorative elements. Walking the area, only one conclusion can be made: the Romans sure knew how to make a swanky spa. Their model for relaxation and detoxification in what is basically an art museum is something to be replicated.

At the end of the exhibit, you can drink a glass of healing (and treated) spa water. It doesn’t matter how fancy you dispense it, it is not a pleasant beverage. It has a very metallic taste and since it comes from the bath, it is a bit warm. Thirst-quenching it is not.

The Roman Baths are a popular attraction for tourists, which leads to Bath Lesson #1: Don’t be a weird tourist taking pictures of random stuff. I watched as a man stopped to take a picture of a television screen showing a cartoon depiction of Roman life in 60 AD. I didn’t know if I should explain that he was not viewing historical documentary footage of actual Roman people (seeing how it was animated and all). How do you explain that image to the friends and family you force to see your holiday photos? You can’t. It’s weird. Don’t do it.

Afternoon Tea 

Here’s the deal, once you go Afternoon Tea you NEVER go back. I cannot imagine my life before Afternoon Tea. It seems so barbaric now. There is nothing like a crisp white tablecloth, a multi-tiered platter of sandwiches and pastries, and a hot pot of tea to make the world just a bit brighter.

Since my first experience on day one at Jane Austen’s Tea Room in Bath, I had Afternoon Tea everyday after. My plan is to make this a life-long habit by ordering scone cookbooks and figuring out how to make clotted cream. It is all just so decadent! I admit, some experiences were better then others, but even the bad were not so bad.

For instance, a popular spot for tourists is Sally Lunn’s, the creator of the original Bath Bunn (described as part bun, part bread, part cake). Situated in one of the oldest houses in Bath, the restaurant sits atop what is believed to be the original kitchen from 1482 (now a pretty neat museum you can visit). The rooms above are decorated beautifully and serve as a great spot to enjoy Afternoon Tea. So I waited 20 minutes for a table and ordered one of the famous Sally Lunn bunns. To be honest, afterward I couldn’t help thinking, “Did I just spend 10 pounds on tea and toast?” I did not get the, “part bun, part bread, part cake” bit.

Now, Afternoon Tea in The Pump Room at The Roman Baths is the epitome of tea time done right. I admit, I knew it going in. I had dressed up a bit for my Pump Room Tea Time because as any reader of Regency novels will tell you, tea at The Pump Room is a big deal. I was not disappointed. The room was gorgeous! Chandeliers sparkled from the ceiling as you were lead to your table. I was seated next to a trio of musicians gently playing a variety of classical pieces. EVERYTHING on the tea tray was delicious. Not a smear of clotted cream was left. I did wonder though, why do I eat my sandwiches with crust on it? Five-year-olds have it right, crust is stupid. A crustless, white bread, cucumber and cress sandwich is what life is all about. I did not want to leave. If they would let me, I would move into The Pump Room.

This leads to Bath Lesson #2: Always say “Yes” to Afternoon Tea. It does not matter if you have just eaten. It does not matter if you have already had tea that day. If the opportunity presents itself, you say “Yes” to Afternoon Tea. Always. I had just left my own Afternoon Tea experience at Sally Lunn’s when I heard a couple talking outside the restaurant. The guy asked if his girlfriend wanted to have tea there and her response was, “We are doing tea tomorrow, let’s not do it today as well.” What?!?!?  I wanted to shake the woman and apologetically inform her that her Bath privileges had been revoked and as a non-citizen I would have to ask her to leave. To avoid being asked to leave Bath, just say “Yes” to Tea Time.

Jane Austen Festival

Every year, the city of Bath hosts over a week’s worth of Jane Austen themed festivities. It was no accident I was in Bath for Jane Austen Fest 2016.

Jane Austen is my homegirl. As with many readers, my favorite book is Pride and Prejudice with Persuasion taking a close second. While it is known that Jane was not a huge fan of Baths, she did live there for a number of years and set two of her novels in the city (Northanger Abbey and Persuasion). She is everywhere, hence the festival.

The festival hosts a variety of Jane Austen readings, Jane Austen walking tours, Jane Austen novel reenactments, and discussions surrounding dress, manners and dance style of the Jane Austen era. The festivities kick off with a Promenade around a portion of Bath. Promenade participants were dressed in their Regency best and at first, I thought they were also speaking in character as I heard pieces of conversations as they passed. Turns out British accents just always seem super proper and Austen-like. Go figure.

 What I enjoyed the most about the Jane Austen Festival was the opportunity to surround myself in the life and writing of an author I love. To visit places she wrote about and imagine, for a bit, being the heroine of a Jane Austen novel as I sit under a chandelier in the Assembly Rooms. Better yet, as I geek out on all things Jane Austen, I am surrounded by others (in bonnets and frocks) geeking out on her as well.

Which is Bath Lesson #3: Know and accept when you are geeking out. Events for the Jane Austen Festival are ticketed and as I waited in line for the Box Office, a clear regular to the festival was at the desk waiting for her friend to get her tickets. As she cooly looked around at those in line, owning the place, she turns to her friend and says, “Can you believe there are people in Bath just learning of the Festival? And they think they can get tickets to attend. I don’t think so.” Ok girl, calm down. I love me some Jane, but let’s be clear: we are 100% geeking out right now. This festival is an Austen-ites Comic-Con. You just can’t be a snob when you’re busy being a geek. Check it with your reticule at the door.

The Peaks and Valleys of Bath

In addition to the incredible architecture, Bath is surrounded by some incredible walking paths and farm land.

Since school had not started, I stayed at the University of Bath’s accommodations which were up the hill from city centre. Before arriving, I was assured by previous Airbnb Hosts that I could absolutely walk to and from the University to town. Google Map said it was a 30 minute walk. No problem. I set off with my 40 pound and growing suitcase and 20 pound and growing backpack and ten minutes later I was sitting on a bench calling Uber. I had not taken more than 10 steps up that hill dragging my belongs when I pushed the “Abort” button. I swear toward the end (5 steps in) the road went vertical. I was looking for toe holds as I scaled that hill.

Settling in at the University, I found a path by campus that promoted the Bath Skyline Walk. The walk was more than 6 miles and circled the city. The National Trust set up the walking path with directional signs and they did a really terrific job. The path went through heavily wooded areas where you would often find yourself alone in nature. It also went through fields, active farms, historical landmarks, and neighborhoods; all of which provided incredible views of the city as a whole.

The path also provided hills to climb. There were a few times I was glad no one was around to hear me gasping for breath. Granted, it was a great deal easier conquering these inclines without a suitcase and backpack, but some of them were still tough and Uber refused to go off-road. All hills were conquered though and I am now here to brag about it as well as share the next and final lesson.

Bath Lesson #5: Take walking tours. Since being in Ireland and the UK, I have participated in a number of walking tours and they are rarely heavily attended. I also rarely run into that many people on the trail. Which is good in a way as it would not be as enjoyable if it were overcrowded, but people are missing out on some incredible landscapes and experiencing parts of the country that they would not see if on a bus or in a car. Whether it is a short strolling walk or a full 6 miles with hills and valleys, I encourage taking the walk. And if you are ever in doubt, call Uber.