Discovering Moher

Most people have at one time or another heard about the Cliffs of Moher when talking about points of interest in Ireland. As the country’s most visited attraction, the Moher attracts almost one million to its cliffs each year. Gorgeous? Absolutely. But here is the reality, visiting the Cliffs of Moher is a full body contact adrenalin rush not for the faint of heart. You have been warned.

The day I headed to the cliffs was a dreary one. There was a light rain and it was rather chilly and windy. After sweating through my shirt driving to the cliffs (too much rain, too narrow roads), I arrived at the Moher’s parking lot and made my way to the cliff.

When arriving, you first come across the Visitor Center built into the side of a hill (Hobbit style) where there is a cafe, restaurant, gift shop, etc. Behind the Visitor Center are paved walkways surrounded by a wall to separate guests from the edge; however, various stairs and platforms provide different views of the cliffs over the walls.

At my first look of the Cliffs of Moher, my thoughts were (and in this order): “Nice. Very pretty. It’s getting colder. Is this it? Should I eat lunch now?” Obviously I felt like I was missing something. Again, very pretty scenery, but that “Holy Crap, I can’t believe I am here seeing this!” feeling was not quite there.

Regardless, I wanted to see everything while I was there. The main walkway led to a raised viewing platform to my left. Walking up a small incline, I experienced it – my first brush with the Cliffs of Moher wind. This was not simply a strong gust of wind. This was a knock-the-breath-so-hard-out-of-your-body-you-can’t-remember-how-to-breath kind of wind. The strength of it startled and frightened me. Little did I know, it was just a taste of what the cliffs had to offer.

Along the cliff, there were pocket areas where a valley was created at the cliffs edge and wind and sea water just shot through it. You could physically see the wind pushing up the sea water.

I stood stunned on the other side sort of my first wind and sea pocket and watched as those behind me fought the elements. I was not sure how I had previously missed the fact that an inordinate number of people were wearing nylon rain gear, but I was acutely aware now as the constant whip-crack of nylon jumpsuit meeting high wind was echoing all around me. A popular photo opportunity was to stand in the wind pocket with your arms outstretched like you were sky diving. Very popular. Very.

Heading to O’Brien’s Tower (built in 1835 for the purpose of viewing the cliffs), I dodged faux sky divers to enter the tower and climb a small winding staircase to the top for some incredible views. Very pretty, but I still had yet to say” Holy Crap.”

I read in my guidebook that you could hike along the cliffs going either north to the small village of Doolin or south to Liscanoor. At the top of the tower, I saw an interesting trail toward Liscanoor and decided to go ahead and give it a go.

So, I believe in signs. Omens. Little pings to the intuitive self. Walking in the direction of Liscanoor, I came across my first one:

Then another…

And another…

Now, I am a pretty smart girl, so putting these literal signs together, I sensed danger ahead. Confirming my suspicions were the parade of people coming toward me with mud streaks down the side or back of their pants. Treacherous roads were indeed ahead.

Leaving the safety of the Vistors Center, I did as I was told and walked a worn path, a good distance from the cliffs edge, that had stone tablets edging it. On the other side of the stone tablets lay another worn path along the cliff’s edge. The Cliffs of Moher were presenting an interesting challenge: Are you the type of person to play it safe behind the safety stones or were you the type to take a risk in order to experience the Moher’s natural beauty without interruption? Hmmm…

To begin, I chose safety stones and watched those on the risky side with a mixture of envy and trepidation. Traveling the “good path”, there were a couple of times it got pretty tricky. The path was narrow and muddy with one side lined with stones and the other a wire fence to keep livestock from the neighboring farm away. At one point there was a sign posted on the fence that warned it was electrified.

What?! This was not in my guidebook.

Determined (and kinda wondering if this truly was the “good path”), I continued on squeezing past fellow sightseers, climbing over rock heaps and passing through wind pockets all while avoiding the may or may not be electrified fence. Finally I came to a pretty open area on the other side of the safety stones. Before I could think about it too much, I climbed over and sat. I figured it would be harder for the wind to knock me over a cliff if I am already on my butt. That’s just physics.

I continued the risky path outside the safety stones and encountered the grand daddy of wind pockets. I wish I knew the speed of this wind, but what I can say is that I thought I was going to be tossed up in the air like an empty plastic back and tumbled over the side of the cliff. And the noise! Like a freight train passing right through you.

After making sure I had my footing, I had to get a video of this as it was so incredible and insane and exhilerating. Be sure to check out the people in front of me crawling on their hands and knees.

Putting my camera away, I got my balance and just stood there…wobbling. That’s when I felt it. I can’t tell you exactly what it was about that moment, but standing before this dramatic landscape with an incredible force just trying to knock me down and failing..it was humbling and thrilling and one hell of an adrenaline rush. “Holy Crap!” I just stood there grinning like a complete lunatic.

The guy in front of me decided I was crazy and he was turning back. I couldn’t figure out why, especially since it was a wind pocket, you just had to get through it to the other side, but clearly the Moher got the better of him.

Continuing on the risky side, I was able to get closer views of the cliffs edge and some incredible pictures. This far from the Visitors Center, the crowd thinned out a bit, so I could sit on the safety stones and look out to the Atlantic without anyone walking by. The sun was even peeking out a bit.

Around noon, I decided to head back and it was a good thing because somewhere around 11.30 am, the tour buses had descended and the Cliffs of Moher became the Cliffs of Mahem.

On my return journey, I realized how close I had wandered to the cliffs edge. I was still riding the high from my Wind Battle, so I stayed on the risky side, but hugged the safety stone wall. The problem was the number of people headed toward me. The “good path” behind the safety stones was packed. The risky path was loaded with people and no one knew how to maneuver around one another. One of the most incredible sights was when I saw a father walking with his two little girls and brought them closer to the cliffs edge to get around people! Just no sense. This situation was an accident waiting to happen and I did not want to be that casualty story.

I finally escaped the ridiculousness and made my way to an open area where I stood and admired what I had finally come to appreciate. Green topped cliffs giving way to dark limestone dropping into a raging ocean swirling powerfully with an almost angry wind. You feel so small in relation to something so magnificent. A truly incredible experience and that is what I discovered. You can’t just see the Cliffs of Moher. You have to experience them and sometimes that means taking a risk and going outside the safety stones…but not too far! Safety first.