Between Two Cities

Round 1: The City

While it feels a little weird to be calling a city founded in 50 AD modern, London fits the description. I could not help thinking I was in British New York. The cabs, the subways (excuse me, Underground), the theatre district, the tourists, and the people rushing around as if they are already 15 minutes late for wherever they are going…all very NYC familiar.

London caters to the large number of tourists who arrive in droves to soak up anything related to the monarchy or Harry Potter (I fall firmly in the camp of Team Ravenclaw).  Seamlessly interwoven into the hustle and bustle of the city are London’s incredible historical (and political) structures; including landmarks like the Admiralty Arch, Buckingham Palace, and Kensington Palace.

London is a large city teeming with people. As a political and corporate epicenter, the city exudes the history and respect it has earned over the years, but has made sure to remain relevant and change its aesthetics with the times…modern.

Comparatively, York is a city with an equally rich history that the city works to preserve. From cobblestone streets, thatch-roofed homes, and quaint shop fronts, you can easily be transported back to the 17th century while wandering in York.

Throughout the city, numerous plaques similar to the one above mark areas of note. Guy Fawkes (famous for his failed attempt to blow up the House of Lords) has numerous plaques as he was born in York. I even had lunch at the Guy Fawkes Inn where he was born. The historic pub with its wood paneled floor and beamed ceilings not only had incredible food, the walls were covered in historical information.

Street after street is filled with charming store fronts that retain York’s old-world look. Instead of updating city structures with the times, York makes the times fit in the existing medieval framework.

Round 2: The Abbeys

Both London and York are home to some pretty impressive Abbeys; however, Westminster Abbey in London is where the who’s who of English history call home. Not only has the Abbey been the the coronation church since 1066, more than 17 monarchs are buried there and the cover of the visitor brochure bears a photo of Will and Kate’s wedding. This place is kinda a big deal.

Photos are not allowed inside (slightly ironic since a televised spectacle occurred inside during THE wedding), but take my word for it, it is pretty spectacular. The walls and floors are filled with more than 3,300 individuals buried or commemorated. Of particular interest to me was the Poets’ Corner which memorialized a number of poets, playwrights, and writers. From elaborate recognition (William Shakespeare has a life size full body statue in tribute since he is actually buried at Stratford-Upon-Avon) to simple acknowledgements (Charles Dickens has a plain black marble tile with his name and dates of birth and death in gold), it is overwhelming to be in a place full of such notable and genius individuals. Outside the literary heroes I have followed, it is a bit surreal to walk by the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots. These almost mythical individuals become just a bit more real.

York Minster is a bit different as there is less celebrity status, but it is artistically an absolutely stunning structure. Every inch has been sculpted and painted in meticulous detail. York Minster is home to the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world and the light flooding in warms the marble ceilings and walls found inside.

The tombs provide an artistic peek into the lives resting in York Minster. Elaborately carved and painted statues of individuals and families are commemorated in a simple and beautiful manner. Preferable, in my opinion, to cold marble busts of a floating head.

York Minster has multiple levels for visitors. General admission includes entrance to the cathedral plus the opportunity to go below into the Undercroft to view an exhibit on the York Minster’s conservation and restoration plans. Visitors can also climb the Central Tower to the top of the Abbey for stunning views of York.

Round 3: Tea Time

It should be abundantly clear at this point that I enjoy a good tea time. One of the great letdowns in American history is that the tea time tradition did not make it over on the Mayflower. That being said, I had pretty different tea time experiences in London and York.

In London, I reserved tea time at two different places with two opposite experiences. The first was the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party at Sanderson Hotel. The tea was Alice in Wonderland themed in the hotels modern solarium. The presentation was adorable.

Menu’s were found in book pages, tea was served in king/queen teapots, and caterpillar cookies and “Drink Me” juices were all part of the experience. The teas were even themed in accordance with Alice.

Not too surprising, my tea of choice was “Mad Hatter.” The experience was charming but unfortunately the food was not the best. While items like a blue caterpillar cookie is fitting to the theme, it seems more time was spent on making edibles cute versus tasty. I ate very little and I am very much a ‘clean your plate’ kind of girl.

My second London tea experience was an Afternoon Tea Bus Tour. This tour loaded you up on a gorgeous red bus and drove you around various London highlights as you enjoyed your tea experience.

The bus tour was organized by a bakery and in this case the food was delicious! A variety of sweet and savory options were provided and the plates were all held in place with a non-slip mat. Tea was served in to-go cups that you were then allowed to keep. While the food was great, the tour not so much. Our server also served in the role of tour guide and therefore, there was little guidance. You drove London around with no idea where you were and what you were seeing. Oh well, in this case my plate was sparkling clean.

In York, I did tea time a little more simply and took advantage of a special at Bari Ristorante in The Shambles. For a little more than 2 pounds, you could get tea or hot chocolate and a doughnut. That is doughnut, not donut. There is a marked distinction because I now believe the doughnut is my life. The dough was covered in sugar and deep fried, creating a sugar shell to protect the warm deliciousness inside. My only regret is that I should have ordered tea and a baker’s dozen because one was not enough. Instead, I sadly developed restrained, wiped the sugar off my face and hair (not sure how it got there), and politely finished my tea like a good girl.

Round 4: Harry Potter

When it comes to the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, you can’t beat London. From the books, to the play, to areas of novel inspiration, Potter can be found everywhere.

I was fortunate enough to spend a day attending Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. The play comes in two parts and you are encouraged to arrive an hour before the start, so at noon I was in line with the other Potter-maniacs. We were all so excited to just be there much less go inside. In line I met a woman with her daughter. The daughter was in her Hogwarts cloak and scarf, but it was the mom jumping up and down in excitement.

Since I chose to see both parts in one day, other than a brief hour and half break between parts one and two, I did not leave the theatre (and the world of Harry Potter) until 10 pm. It was AMAZING and worth every cent.

Before my Harry Potter theatre day, I took a trip just outside London to the Warner Bros Studio Tour in order to get in the Potter Zone. This tour has all of the sets, costumes, and special effects for the Harry Potter films. When filming the Potter movie series, two studios were used: J and K (get it?). When the films wrapped, all of the items were pulled together for this tour. I will say, I completely geeked out when walking through the Hogwarts dining hall. Pretty neat!

London offers a number of tours that will take you to areas that served as inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s novels or the films. I did not take the tour, but I did visit Leadenhall Market, the location of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter film. I didn’t run into Hagrid, but still a pretty enchanted area.

It is virtually impossible for York to compete with London when it comes to all things Harry Potter, but I do have to give credit where credit is due. While Harry Potter cannot be found in York, the shops are making a concerted effort to look for him.

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That concludes my expert analysis of London and York. After four rounds,  you may be wondering, “In the battle of the cities, who is the winner?” Well it comes down to personal opinion and preference. For me there is nothing like a medieval city, so York is my pick. London has its draws and I would return, but probably for no more than three or four days. I am a medieval town junkie. I like being able to wander through streets and buildings imagining myself in a different time. I enjoy a smaller city atmosphere and the slower pace of a medieval town. I also like the more immediate access to nature found in medieval towns. While London has a number of parks to walk, cycle, and run around, you are still very aware you are in a city free of that fresh air smell. I prefer my walks through fields and along ancient medieval walls with strategically placed arrow defense slots enclosing a city. It’s just more peaceful.